| Fitting a mortise lock |
 |
|
Scribe a line centrally
on the edge of the door with a marking gauge and
use the lock body as a template to mark the top
and bottom of the mortise.. Choose a drill bit
that matches the lock body thickness and drill
out the majority of the waste to the depth of
the mortise body.
|
 |
|
Square up the edges of
the hole with a chisel until the lock fits
snugly in the slot.
|
 |
|
Mark around the edge of
the faceplate with a knife, then chop a series
of shallow cuts across the waste. Pare out the
recess until the faceplate is flush with the
edge of the door.
|
 |
|
Hold
the lock against the face of the door, ensuring
that the faceplate is flush with the edge and
mark the centre of the keyhole with a bradawl.
Clamp a piece of scrap timber to the other side
of the door over the keyhole position and drill
right through on the centre mark. The scrap of
timber will prevent the drill splintering the
door as it bursts through on the other side.
Cut out the keyhole slot on both sides with a
padsaw.
|
 |
|
Screw the lock into its recess, check its
operation, screw on the coverplate. It is
advisable to have the bolt out when fixing the
coverplate to ensure it is in the correct
position.
Screw
the escutcheons over each side of the hole.
|
 |
|
With the door closed,
operate the bolt; it may incorporate a marking
device to gauge the position of the striking
plate on the door frame. If it doesn't have a
marking device, shoot the bolt fully open, push
the door up against the door frame and draw
around the bolt on the face of the frame.
|
 |
|
Mark out and cut the
mortise and recess for the striking plate as
described for the lock. Screw the striking plate
into position and check the operation again. |
|
| Fitting a cylinder rim lock |
 |
|
Tape
the template provided with the lock to the door
and mark then drill holes to accept the
cylinder.
They
vary in size between models. Pass the cylinder
into the hole from the outside and connect it to
the mounting plate on the inside with machine
screws.
|
 |
|
Drill
and insert the woodscrews to hold the plate to
the door.
|
 |
|
Check
the required length of the connecting bar, which
projects through the plate and, if necessary,
cut it to the correct size with a hacksaw.
Mark
and cut the recess in the door edge for the
lock, and attach it to the door and mounting
plate with screws.
|
 |
|
Mark
the position of the lock on the frame and use
the template to drill for staple fixing screws
or stud. Hold the staple against the frame to
mark its recess. Chop and pare out the recess
then screw on the staple.
|
|
| Fitting rack
bolts |
 |
|
There are many strong
bolts for securing a door from the inside, but
the rack bolt can be fitted into the door edge,
secure and unobtrusive.
Fit them to front, back
and side doors in addition to mortise and rim
locks.
Drill a hole - usually 16mm
in diameter, for the barrel of the bolt in the
edge of the door. Use a try square to transfer
the centre of the hole to the inside face of the
door. Measure the keyhole and drill it with a
10mm bit. Insert the bolt.
|
 |
|
With the key in position, mark the recess for
the faceplate then cut it out with a chisel.
Screw the bolt and keyhole plate to the door.
|
 |
|
Operate the
bolt to mark the frame, then drill a 16mm dia.
hole to a depth that matches the length of the
bolt. Fit the locking plate over the hole.
|
|
| Fitting
hinge bolts |
 |
|
Fit two bolts per door near the hinges. Drill
holes in the door edge for the bolt and another
in the door frame.
Recess
the locking plate in the frame and screw
securely.
|
|
| Fitting
a door chain |
 |
|
No special skills are
needed to fit a chain, simply screw the fixing
plates to the door and frame. Fit the chain just
below the lock. |
| |
|
|
|
|